How to Install Drywall
Install drywall (or Sheetrock) yourself and save a lot of money. We'll show you everything you need to know about hanging drywall, from the tools and materials you'll need to the finishing touches.
Skill
Intermediate
Time
One Weekend
Cost
Less Than $5,000
What You Need for This Project
Tools
What You Need to Know About Hanging Drywall
Drywall is simply panels of pressed gypsum plaster placed between heavy paper. It's also known as plasterboard, wallboard, gypsum board, and Sheetrock (Sheetrock is the registered trademark of the company that makes drywall).
Drywall comes in three basic thicknesses:
- 5/8 inch is the heaviest and most soundproof.
- 3/8 in. is the best at covering existing walls.
- 1/4 in. is what you'd use for curved walls and arches.
When hanging drywall, your goal should be to have as few seams as possible, so choose the largest drywall panels and pieces you can safely work with.
Good to Know
Vertical joints in drywall are also called "butt joints", or the joint that's formed where non-tapered ends of drywall meet. Make sure to blend these with joint compound at the end for a smooth, seamless appearance.
Tip: Leave a 1/2 in. gap at the floor so the floor and wall can expand without cracking the drywall. This gap also helps prevent moisture wicking if the floor floods.
Caution
Wear work gloves, safety goggles, and a dust mask when hanging drywall.
Prepare the Room
Before you begin, cover electrical and plumbing lines with nail protector plates. Doing so means you won't drill or nail into utility lines.
How to Hang Drywall
- 1
Apply Adhesive
Starting with the top row, apply adhesive to the studs. A wall stud is the vertical frame that holds the wall structure in place. The adhesive helps prevent popped nail heads by helping to hold the drywall panel in place. Steps:
- 2
Put the First Sheet in Place
Holding the first sheet horizontally across the ceiling and close to the corner, align both vertical sides with studs. Hammer in a few nails to hold it in place.
Note: Make sure the nail heads are beneath the surface of the drywall. You can cover the nails with joint compound later. Steps:
- 3
Prepare the Second Sheet
Measure the remaining space, adding 1/4 in. for easier installation. Mark and score the front side of the second drywall panel. Snap the front side (gypsum) and cut the paper backing with a knife; smooth rough edges with a rasp. Steps:
- 4
Gently Secure the Second Sheet
Tack the second piece into place with ring drywall nails. Ring drywall nails are powerful fasteners characterized by rings around the nail to create more friction with the wood, holding it in place better than traditional nails. Steps:
- 5
Mark the Studs
Mark the studs so you know where to drive the screws. Steps:
- 6
Drive in the Screws
Drive screws into the studs — roughly 16 in. apart in the middle and 8 in. along the vertical joints. Keep the screws 3/8 in. from the edge.
Note: The screw heads should be just below the surface so you can cover them with joint compound later on. Drywall drills are specifically designed to make this happen every time. Steps:
- 7
Start on the Bottom Row
Measure and cut the height and width for the bottom row using the score-snap-rasp method above. Steps:
- 8
Mark for the Electrical Box
Mark electrical boxes on the bottom row of panels. To do this, measure from the bottom of the top panel to the top of the electrical box. Transfer the mark to the new piece of drywall.
Note: Turn off electricity to the room before working around electrical outlets. Steps:
- 9
Cut for the Electrical Box
Measure the height and width of the electrical box and create a pattern on the new piece of drywall. Using a serrated drywall knife cut out the rectangular pattern for the electrical box.
Tip: Test the tightness of the fit around the electrical box, If the fit is too snug, shave away a little more drywall so it doesn't crack and break. Steps:
- 10
Elevate the Panel
Hold the panel in place using a foot lift. Keep it 1/2 in. off the floor and tack some nails in to hold it. Steps:
- 11
Drive in the Rest of the Screws
Hang the next piece and go back to drive all the screws into place. Steps:
- 12
Make Window & Door Cutouts
To cut out windows and doors, hang the top row of drywall and make the cutout with a saw. Avoid creating a joint at the door or window corner. This will increase the odds of cracks later. Steps:
- 13
Make a Cutout in the Bottom Panel
Hang the bottom panel, avoiding seam creation at window corners, and make the cutout with a saw. Steps:
- 14
Leave a Bit of Space for Inside Corners
For inside corners, don't force the pieces tightly together — this will cause crumbling and breaking later. Cut it to leave about 1/8 in. of wiggle room, which you'll fill with joint compound at the end. Steps:
- 15
Finish Outside Corners
For outside corners, let the panel overhang the corner on one side. Hang the adjacent panel, touching the back side of the overhang, and secure it. Cut away the excess. Steps:
Joint Compound: The First Coat
- 1
Apply & Feather
Following the same vertical, horizontal, corner pattern, apply pre-mixed joint compound over the mesh tape with a drywall knife. Feather the edges to manage excess compound.
Feathering is an application technique that increases the pressure and angle of the drywall knife as it moves towards the edge of the compound. This creates the thinnest possible layer of compound at the outer edges of the seams. Steps:
- 2
Start with Inside Corners
On the inside corners, apply joint compound to each side and crease paper tape along the centreline. Press it into place with your fingers. Without cutting the tape, run your knife carefully down one side and then the other to create a firm fit. Steps:
- 3
Move to Outside Corners
On the outside corners, apply a layer of compound to either side of the corner. Cut paper beading to fit the height of the wall and press it into place with your fingers. Run a drywall knife over the beading to ensure a tight fit and simultaneously remove excess compound.
Tip: Beading is available in a variety of materials, including paper, vinyl, and metal. Steps:
- 4
Finish the First Coat
Finally, using a drywall knife, coat the fasteners with a layer of compound. Let the first coat dry for 24 hours before starting the second coat. Steps:
Joint Compound: The Second Coat ("Fill" Coat)
- 1
Cover the First Coat
Use a 6 in. drywall knife to cover the first coat of tape and joint compound about 3/16 in. thick on the vertical seams. Steps:
- 2
Blend with the Wall
Use a 10 in. knife to feather the edges wide so that it blends with the wall, then lightly run the knife over the middle. When finished with the second coat, the compound should be 10-12 in. wide. Steps:
- 3
Start with Inside Corners
For inside corners, use a 6 in. drywall knife to feather the compound along one side only. The other side will get feathered on the third coat. Steps:
- 4
Move to Outside Corners
For outside corners, use a 10 in. knife to apply compound to both sides. Feather the second layer out past the first one to blend the edges with the wall. Steps:
- 5
Finish the Second Coat
Apply a second coat of compound over all fasteners. Let the second coat dry 24 hours before moving on to the third coat. Steps:
Joint Compound: The Third Coat ("Finish" Coat)
- 1
Sand the Joints
The third coat is called the finish coat, which means you should leave no tool marks. To get started, lightly sand the joints with 120-grit sandpaper.
Use a vacuum sander or wet sponge to limit the amount of dust produced.
Note: Wear safety goggles and a mask. Open windows and cover doorways with plastic to reduce the mess in other parts of the house. Steps:
- 2
Work on the Seams
Apply joint compound to the seams and feather the edges again.
Check the vertical seams by holding a flat-edge trowel with the blade perpendicular to the wall to see how far you need to feather out the coats. Steps:
- 3
Finish the Inside Corner
Return to the inside corner left alone in the second coat, and apply compound to the other side of it. Steps:
- 4
Finish the Third Coat
If needed, cover the fasteners again with a layer of compound. Let the finish coat dry for 24 hours and lightly sand for a smooth finish. Steps:
Note: For a professional finish, apply a skim coat. A skim coat is a thin layer of joint compound, or "mud", that camouflages any rough areas left after the final coat of compound.
Skim Coat
- 1
Prep the Skim Coat
Mix the skim coat according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Steps:
- 2
Apply
Using a paint roller, work in four foot sections to roll on a finish compound. Steps:
- 3
Remove the Excess
Immediately remove the excess with a 12 in. drywall knife. Steps:
- 4
Let Dry, Then Sand
Let the skim coat dry for 24 hours, then lightly sand. Steps:
Prime & Paint
- 1
Start with Primer
Apply a drywall primer or sealer and let it dry thoroughly. The amount of time needed for it to dry will depend on the brand or manufacturer you use. Steps:
- 2
Finish with Interior Paint
Finish the job with a coat or two of interior paint. Depending on the type, brand, and colour you choose, the number of coats needed will vary. Make sure to let each coat dry thoroughly before applying the next one. Steps:
How To Terms
Tools, products, materials, techniques, building codes, and local regulations change; therefore, Lowe's assumes no liability for omissions, errors, or the outcome of any project. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed professional if in doubt about any procedures.
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