Mark the posts and spacing using stakes or marking paint. Typical spacing is between 6 and 8 feet on-centre (from the centre of one post to the centre of the next). Keep your tape measure level for accurate spacing.

The strings mark the outside faces of the posts. The centre points of the post holes should be about half the width of the post away from the strings, not directly under them.

After establishing the post hole locations, use a pencil to mark the strings positions on the batter boards. For batter boards next to the house, transfer the string locations to the house in case you need to remove the batter board to dig. Remove the strings — this makes digging post holes easier. You'll reattach them before you set the posts.

• For holes next to the house, use a shovel, post hole digger and digging bar. 

• In open areas, consider using a power auger to save time and effort. 

Reset your layout lines using the marks you made earlier on the batter boards. These help you align the posts properly.

Add concrete mix to the post holes. You can choose between regular-set and fast-set options. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for mixing. 

• If using regular-set concrete, as with this fence, mix it to the consistency of thick cake batter. Fill around each post. Leave the concrete a few inches below ground level. Slope it away from the post to help with water runoff. 

• If using fast-set concrete, pour the dry mix around each post to a few inches below ground level and add water. Initially the water will sit on top, but eventually will work its way to the bottom. Use a stake to mix it if needed, but don't overwork it.

Let the concrete cure, then remove the braces and top off the holes with dirt. Take down your batter boards and strings.

Mark the rail locations on the posts. For this fence, with 6-ft. pickets, the lower edge of the top rails will be 5 feet, 4-1/2 inches above the ground. The upper edge of the bottom rails should be about 9-1/2 inches above the ground. Indicating the locations for the lower edges of the top rails and the upper edges of the bottom rails makes it easier to see the marks when you position the rails.

Measure between the top and bottom rail locations to determine placement of the middle rail. The rail locations don't have to be exact, but should be close for the best appearance.

Tip: Run a string across several posts at the correct height to quickly mark rail locations. For sloped areas, you can mark three to four posts at a time. If the area is relatively level, you can span more posts.

Begin installing your rails. If you have short runs, such as next to the house or around gates, measure and cut rails to fit. Size them a bit long and attach to the outside faces of the posts with two screws at each post. If you're working next to the house, make sure the rails extend to the house, so the pickets will provide full coverage. Trim the other rail ends flush with the posts.

Attach rails for the rest of the fence. Stagger the rail joints on different posts to add stability. For example, with posts spaced about 8 feet apart, use 16-ft. boards as the top and bottom rail to span three posts. For the middle rail, use an 8-foot across two posts.

Rails along a run of the fence should butt together at the middle of posts. At the end of a run, install the rails flush with the edge of the corner post. The rails for the next run should overlap these rail ends and be flush with the rail faces.

As you reach the end of your fence, cut the final rails to fit as needed. Remember to let the rails extend all the way to the house.

Tip: In areas with a significant slope, use shorter rails rather than spanning several posts with long rails. Your fence will follow the contour of the ground more closely.

Cut the post tops flush with the top rails.

Starting at a corner, line up the first outside picket on the rails, flush with the rail ends. Use the 2x4 method above to position it at the correct height. Secure the picket with a pneumatic nailer, pneumatic stapler or drill, driving two fasteners at each rail.

Note: Use exterior-grade fasteners rated for pressure treated lumber. 

Assemble a spacer to simplify installation of the remaining pickets. Attach a short block of 2x4 to the back of a longer, straight 2x4. Hang the spacer on the top rail, against a corner picket. Install the next picket flush against the spacer to get the proper 3-1/2-inch spacing and to keep the picket plumb.

Continue installing pickets along the run, spaced 3-1/2 inches apart. Periodically use a level to make sure the pickets are plumb.

Tip: On very short runs, you may need to adjust the spacing to use full pickets.

As you get close to corners, adjust the spacing of the pickets as necessary to make them fit. The final picket at a corner should be flush with the rail ends. If you prefer, you can use a table saw to rip the picket — cut along its length — to the correct width (if your pickets have a dog ear at the top, mark a new dog ear with a speed square and cut with a jigsaw).

Overlap the pickets at corners. After you turn a corner, the edge of the first picket in the new run should be flush with the face of the final picket in the previous run.

Measure and rip cut the final picket as necessary to fit and maintain proper spacing.

After you finish installing the outside pickets, begin installing the pickets on the inside of the fence. Overlap the outside pickets by 1 inch on each side. Plumb the first picket in a run with a level and position it at the correct height. On slopes, be sure to split the difference in height of the adjacent, outside pickets.

Continue installing pickets, using your spacer and periodically checking for plumb. Use string or a 2x4 as you did on the outside pickets to maintain the correct height. If the ground is too sloped or uneven, use a short 2x4 board across the top of the pickets as a guide.

Use a jigsaw to cut pickets to fit around posts as needed. On short runs, rip cut pickets as necessary.

Tip: If the contour of the ground immediately under a picket makes the picket too tall, turn it bottom-end-up and mark at the correct height. Cut the excess from the bottom.

Measure the distance between the top and bottom fence rails, accounting for the horizontal gate rails, and if needed, the thickness of the brackets. Cut two vertical gate rails to length.

Assemble the frame with screws. Depending on the hardware, you may need to make small mitre cuts at the corners of the gate rails to allow for welds.

Measure and cut a middle rail to run between the vertical gate rails. Install with screws.

Tip: If your gate will be over level ground, you can install the pickets before hanging the gate. If you're working on a slope, follow the steps below to get the best placement for the pickets. 

To hang the frame, hold it in place and mark the holes for hinges. Drill pilot holes in the support board and attach the gate with screws. Don't attach the hinges to the end grain of the fence rails.

Install the post-side portion of the latch to the appropriate post or board. Don't secure it to the end of the fence rail. Line up the gate-side elements and attach them to the gate with screws.

Attach the pickets to the frame. Use a string attached to the adjacent fence runs as a guide to position the pickets.