Have you ever felt confused when ready to start a woodworking project? You're not alone, but finding the right wood or lumber isn't as hard as it seems. We'll show you how to pick the right type of wood so your next project will be easy and fun.
These are the trees that lose their leaves in the fall (deciduous). Among an abundant variety, only about 200 are plentiful and pliable enough for woodworking. Much like our skin, hardwoods have microscopic pores on the surface. The size of these pores determines the grain pattern and texture. Because of this, hardwoods are classified by pore openings as either closed grained (smaller pores) or ring porous (larger pores). Most popular examples of closed grained are cherry maple, while oak, ash, and poplar are the most popular ring porous types.
Softwoods come from "evergreen" trees (coniferous). Only 25 percent of all softwoods are used in woodworking. All softwoods have a closed grain (small pores) that is not very noticeable in the finished product. The most popular softwoods are cedar, fir, pine, and spruce.
In addition to choosing between hardwood or softwood, there are other certain characteristics that are common in all wood types. Here are some common terms and definitions you should know.
Heavy woods like oak are identified by their weight and tight grain pattern, and resist wear, dents, and scratches better than softwoods.
This is the wood property that determines the condition of the surface and stability. It plays an important role in deciding how a wood can be finished.
Defects in wood are natural and are appreciated by many woodworkers for the unique character they contribute.
Lumber grades are determined by the number, location, and size of defects in the board, not its strength. The clearer the wood, the higher the grade.
This is the wood's ability not to shrink or expand before or after it has been worked.
Durable woods better resist excess moisture and exposure to the earth, where there's a greater chance of decay. Remember, no wood will decay if it's kept dry.
Two boards of the same species can look very different. Each tree has its own grain pattern. This is the direction in which the wood cell fibres grow. These variances in grain direction can have a significant impact on your project.
The grain direction is important to consider when building either structural projects or decorative projects such as furniture or crafts. For instance, when working on a structural application, a straight-grained board is generally the strongest. In more decorative projects, grain with varying characteristics can add beauty and personality to the project.
Grain pattern density determines strength. As you'd expect, a piece of lumber with a tight pattern is stronger than one with a loose grain pattern. And when building, a board's strength is maximized when other pieces run across the grain pattern — not parallel to it.
When a straight-grained log is not sawn along its vertical axis, diagonal grain is the result.
When trees grow twisted, spiral-grained logs and subsequent boards are produced. Fibres follow a spiral course with a twist that is either left- or right-handed.
The board's fibres run approximately parallel with the vertical axis of the log from which it originated.
This type of grain results when the direction of wood fibres has constantly changed.
Boards of this type have fibres at directions that are varying and irregular from the log's vertical axis (e.g. fibres around knots).
Boards with this grain result from trees whose fibres lined up in opposite directions in each growth year.
When you are choosing lumber, do you know what the stamp on the wood actually means? Fear not, we've deciphered those hieroglyphics for you. So the next time you go to the lumber yard, you'll sound like a pro.
Grading designation depends on the number of defects in a given length and width of hardwood boards. As with softwoods, a lower grade can be perfectly acceptable, depending on placement and usage. Hardwoods are graded by the National Hardwood Lumber Association. Here's a chart to help explain the grading system. Grades are listed from highest to lowest.
There are grades below #2 Common, but they are typically not suitable for woodworking.
Softwoods are divided into two categories: dimensional lumber, with a grade based on strength, and appearance boards, which are typically used for woodworking projects. Grading of softwoods is overseen by a number of different agencies, so you will be more likely to find some variations in terminology. Grades listed here are from highest to lowest.
Multiple bends in a board.
Hollow across the face of a board.
A tight knot is usually not a problem. A loose or dead knot, surrounded by a dark ring, may fall out or may have already left a hole.
Crack going all the way through the piece of wood, commonly at the ends.
Missing wood or untrimmed bark along the edge or corner of the piece.
Crack along the wood's annual growth rings, not passing through the entire thickness of the wood.
Separation of grain between the growth rings, often extending along the board's face and sometimes below its surface.
Warp on the face of a board from end to end.
While lumber of the same species and size is still at the mill, it is designated and separated by grade. It is then identified by a stamp and often inventoried by its grade and species. When selecting wood, be sure you look for its grading stamp because different lumberyards sometimes use different names for the same grade. (And remember, if you are having trouble figuring it all out, ask for help).
Grade designations depend on particular defects such as knots or wane. Keep your project final results in mind when selecting the grade of wood. Grade does not indicate consistency of colour or grain patterns.