In most shops the table saw is the workhorse, performing most of the tough tasks, ripping pieces to width, crosscutting to length, ploughing dadoes and even turning a moulder head. Of those tasks, one of the most difficult is crosscutting. The standard mitre gauge that comes with most saws usually leaves a little to be desired when it comes to control on large crosscuts. This simple jig is an excellent tool to help you obtain better crosscuts from your table saw. Lowe's is happy to provide this information as a service to you.
Tools & Materials
• Table saw
• Jig saw
• Drill/driver with bits
• Tape measure
• Framing Square
• Dust mask
• 1x6x8' Poplar board
• One sheet Medium density fibreboard (MDF)
• #6x1" Screws
• Wood glue
Constructing The Jig
Predrill for and countersink all screws.
The table runners should fit snugly.
1. Cut the parts according to the cut list.
2. Place the runners into the mitre gauge slots on your saw. Check that the runners fit snugly and adjust as necessary.
3. Place the bed on the saw table so the bed's left side is flush with the table's left side and the bed's rear edge is flush with the table's near edge.
4. Mark the bed for three screws to drive through the bed into each of the runners. Remove the bed and bore countersink holes at the marks.
5. Put a thin bead of glue along the top of each runner and reposition the bed on the saw table as in step two. Clamp the bed in place at each corner and use #6x1" screws to secure the bed and runners.
6. Start the saw and crank the blade up through the bed to full height. Crank the blade all the way back down, turn off and unplug the saw.
Make a line squared to the kerf.
7. Measure in 1" from the bed's rear edge and make a mark. Use a framing square to draw a line through the mark, squared to the kerf made by the saw blade. The line should extend to each side of the bed.
8. Stand the rear fence on edge so its front face is flush with the squared line. Trace the fence's back face onto the bed. Remove the fence and bore countersink holes through the bottom of the bed for screws to secure the fence. Sight down the bed to ensure that no screws are close to the line of the kerf.
9. Glue and screw the rear fence in place.
10. Stand the front fence on edge so its front face is flush with the bed's front edge. Square the front fence with the kerf and secure it to the bed as you did the rear fence. Remove the assembly from the saw table.
11. Set the saw's blade height to 3" and run the assembly through the saw until the blade just penetrates the rear face of the rear fence.
12. Glue and clamp the blade guard pieces to the rear fence and bed. The blade guard pieces should be centered on the kerf in the back of the rear fence. See an exploded view.
Wax the table runners and the bottom of the bed to allow the jig to slide freely on the saw.