Entire Home Solutions - Create a Kitchen Cart
A Kitchen Cart
Whether you need more counter space or storage space, this handy kitchen cart has it all.
- Tape measure and pencil
- Table saw or portable circular saw and straightedge guide
- Electric drill, drill bits, and countersink
- Phillips screwdriver or driver bit for electric drill
- Assorted clamps
- Kreg pocket-hole jig
- Sandpaper and sanding block
- Paintbrush and roller
- Router or laminate trimmer with flush-trim bit
- 3/4"x49"x97" MDF (#37461)
- wooden door-mount spice rack
- 2 - 1/2"x3" galvanized steel pipe nipples (#24028)
- 2 - 1/2"x6" galvanized steel pipe nipples (#24033)
- 2 - 1/2"x8" galvanized steel pipe nipples (#24034)
- 2 - 1/2" galvanized steel tees (#22210)
- 6 - 1/2" galvanized floor flanges (#22440)
- 7 - 6-pack #12x3/4" zinc-plated steel panhead screws
- 2 - 3" rubber rigid casters (#66021)
- 2 - 3" rubber swivel casters (#67768)
- 100-pack 1-1/4" coarse-thread pocket screws
- 2 - 1/4"x36" aluminum round rods (#216090)
- 50-pack #8x2" flathead wood screws
- Elmer's 4-ounce interior/exterior wood filler (#185850)
- CGC 4-ounce super glue adhesive (#45484)
- CGC medium fine sanding sponge (#306095)
- Valspar interior latex primer, quart (#165217)
- Valspar Ultra Premium semi-gloss interior latex base, quart, CI15 Midnight Bayou
- 24"x30" Wilsonart Western Iron plastic laminate
- From 3/4" MDF, cut the wide end (A), narrow end (B), side (C), and bottom and top (D) to size (Cutting List). Set the top aside.
- Clamp the wide and narrow ends (A, B) together with the ends and one edge of each part flush. Mark hole centers for three aluminum rods on the wide end, and drill 1/4" holes through the wide end, 1/2" in from the outside edge, and 3/8" into the narrow end. Separate the parts.
TIP: To accurately gauge drilling depth for the aluminum rods, attach a masking tape "flag" to the drill bit 1-1/8" from the end.
- Glue and clamp the side (C) to the wide end (A) Project Diagram. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the end and into the side. Drive #8x2" flathead wood screws.
TIP: In all visible areas, make the countersinks deep enough for a 1/8"-thick covering of wood filler over the screw heads.
- Glue and clamp the narrow end (B) to the side (C) with the face of the narrow end flush with the edge of the side. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the side and into the end. Drive the screws.
- Glue and clamp the ends/side assembly (A/B/C) to the bottom (D) Project Diagram. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the bottom and into the side and ends. Drive screws.
- Cut the small tray sides (E), small tray end (F), shelf (G), large tray and shelf sides (H), large tray and shelf ends (I), and side shelf (J) to size.
- Glue and clamp the small tray sides and end (E, F) and large tray side and end (H, I) to the bottom (D) and to each other at the corners. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the bottom and into the sides and ends. Drive screws.
- Using a pocket-hole jig, drill pocket holes into the bottom of the shelf (G) Project Diagram. Glue and clamp the shelf side and end (H, I) to the shelf and to each other at the corner. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the bottom of the shelf and into the side and end. Drive the screws (but not the pocket screws)
- Glue and clamp the side shelf (J) in the side recess. Drill countersunk pilot holes through the wide end (A), narrow end (B), and side (C) into the shelf. Drive the screws.
- Cut three 14-1/2"-long pieces of 1/4" aluminum rod and polish them to a satin sheen with a fine sanding sponge. Slide the rods through the holes in the wide end (A) and into the holes in the narrow end (B).
TIP: To obtain a uniform satin sheen on the aluminum rods without making a big mess, wet-sand them under running water in a laundry sink.
- Fill all the exposed screw countersinks and the rod holes in the wide end (A) with wood filler. With the filler dry, sand it smooth. Seal all exposed MDF edges and filled countersinks and holes by brushing on "glue sizing," a mixture of one-half wood glue and one-half water. When dry, sand the sizing smooth.
- Prime and paint the cart, shelf assembly (G, H, I), and spice rack. When dry, remove the masking tape.
- Assemble two pipe brackets from 1/2" galvanized pipe flanges, tees, and 3", 6", and 8" nipples; hand tighten the parts. Then use a pipe wrench to tighten the parts to obtain the overall height shown Project Diagram. Test-fit each bracket in the corner of the large tray and tighten the side-arm nipple and flange so the lower flange tucks into the tray corner and the lower and side-arm flanges lay flat on the bottom (D) and side (C). Drill pilot holes and screw one pipe bracket in place.
- Retrieve the shelf assembly (G/H/I) and position it on the top flange of the lower pipe bracket. Cut a 13"-tall spacer and place it against the wide end (A). to hold the shelf level. Clamp the shelf in place and drive pocket screws through the shelf and into the wide end and side (C). Remove the spacer. Drill pilot holes into the bottom of the shelf and screw the top pipe bracket flange to the shelf.
Not So Handy? Shop Kitchen Carts
- Place the second bracket on the shelf and make any adjustments required to ensure that the top of the top flange is flush with the top edge of the side (C) and that the bottom flange screw holes are offset from those in the top flange of the first pipe bracket. Drill pilot holes and screw the bracket in place.
- Retrieve the top (D). Cut two 1"x13-1/2" and two 1"x22-1/2" strips of plastic laminate for the edging and one 13-1/2"x22-1/2" piece for the top surface. Use contact adhesive to bond the edging to the top and flush-trim it with a laminate trimmer or router. Position the top on the cart so the laminate edging overhangs the edges of the wide end (A) and the outside face of the narrow end (B). Drill pilot holes through the top and into the wide end and side (C). Drive the screws. Drill pilot holes and screw the upper pipe bracket flange to the underside of the top. Apply contact adhesive and bond the top laminate to the top. Flush trim the laminate.